A Winter ski adventure for the whole family. Self-drive from UK, do it yourself trip.
Date of trip: Easter holidays 2025
Total cost: £3368.
Does not include ski hire for 2 of the adults as we had our own gear.
Number of party: 7 (4 adults, 3 children).
We chose Val Cenis as a late season ski option, it was a resort that was open and close to where we had stayed the previous week. We arrived on Saturday 12th April and left on Saturday 19th April 2025. The resort closed on 21st April after the Easter bank holiday weekend. Most of the slopes at Val Cenis are north-facing, which helps to preserve snow and keep it good for longer, especially during the spring season, which made is a good option. When we arrived, all the slopes above Termignon were closed, as were the ones higher up on Mont Cenis. It looked like there were some interesting slopes in this part for earlier in the season visits.
With half the resort closed, we were not deterred. There was still plenty to explore including Europe’s longest green run, L’Escargot, spanning 10 kilometers. It’s a beginner-friendly run that winds through forests and is accessible via the La Ramasse chairlift. It was a great run to get your feel after not skiing for a while or for the kid’s to play games as they skied. Our apartment was next to the Ramasse chairlift, so we started on this steady green each morning to join onto the rest of the resort. Coming back to our apartment, we had a route following part of the same green run and joining a fairly steep blue or red slope. During the week, these runs deteriorated so that the red became easier than the blue with better snow coverage and less icy conditions. Then a bit of skilful navigation around muddy patches, holes and narrowing slopes. It was not possible to ski the route for the final two ski days so we caught a bus back or took the car up to the next ski lift location.
At first we were apprehensive about the steep slopes higher up the mountain but due to the North facing nature of the resort, the snow was good and made for confident and very pleasant skiing. It wasn’t icy at all. We did encounter ice and slush on lower slopes but these could be completely avoided by taking a gondola or chair lift up to the higher slopes and staying up high. We enjoyed the challenge getting back to the bottom at the end of the day on slopes churned up and missing patches.
We started our Val Cenis adventure in gorgeous sunshine, soaking it up and the views it gave. Our friends joined us on our second day. We chose shallow gradient routes that gave them time to settle into the skiing but also wanted them to see the amazing views from the top of TSF 4 MET. At 2800m, it overlooked the lac du Mont Cenis and the Italian border. The weather forecast for the rest of the week was set to change, becoming cloudier and wetter. We may have saved this steep blue run for a later date if the weather had been more favourable to views later in the week.
One of our favourite routes went up the TSD 6 Arcelle chair lift. There were picnic benches at the top, fantastic views and felt like you were in a proper Wintry wilderness. There was a shallow but narrower blue run that felt unintimidating to those less confident. The kid’s enjoyed skiing through a tunnel with a surprising speaker mooing at you as you pass. They were particularly keen to take our unsuspecting guests through this and giggled when they jumped in surprise.
We enjoyed lunch and drinks in the restaurant at the top of the main gondola and thought the portions were generous. Hot dogs, cheese toasties and drinks were served outdoors with waiter service. For main meals, you had to queue inside. There was also a large picnic spot opposite with picnic benches to bring your own food. We also loved the igloo on the long green run as an optional picnic spot.
The ski lifts were all closed for two days due to weather and avalanche risk. We were refunded for 2 days. This was automatic as we had booked online. If you bought your ski passes at the resort, you could get a refund by visiting one of the lift pass stations. The first day was raining heavily at the bottom of the slope but snow at the top. We drove to a nearby waterfall and fort for a walk and explore. Overnight, over 100cm snow fell in a 12 hour period. Instead of being disappointed that we could not ski, we took my snow blades and sledges for a play instead. We made snow sculptures, a luge and a snow fort for the ultimate snowball battle. Then swam when we were tired.
There are some excellent restaurants in Val Cenis. We particularly enjoyed Le Napoleon with traditional French dishes including some of the best kid’s menu I’ve ever seen. One son enjoyed a cheesy potato fondu dish and my daughter couldn’t resist the chicken strips followed by marshmallow and chocolate dip with mini smarties and a lolly, all beautifully presented. My other son went for the full adult sized cheese fondu. Each meal had a vegetarian option as well and a range of gluten free options. The atmosphere here was just perfect too with very friendly and attentive staff.
Our final day was the perfect day for a ski holiday to end on. The sun was shining, there was fresh snow everywhere and they were opening the ski lifts. To start, just the short lower runs and 2 chair lifts were open. By noon, they had pisted enough slopes to open the large gondola allowing for lunch with a view and plenty of slopes to play on for an afternoon. We stayed until the lifts closed after ploughing through powder, finding our rhythm on pristine pisted slopes and no slush insight. The kid’s really enjoyed skiing into piles of fluffiness, often getting stuck in the snow off-piste.
Practicalities.
Getting there:
One car went by ferry, costing ~£200 return for the ferry and £280 in fuel and £160 in tolls. Total of £640 for 5 guests. The drive took 9 hours of driving time from Calais. The service stations selling hot food get really busy around 12-2pm. We found if we scheduled our stops outside this time, it felt much more relaxed with space to sit outside or eat peacefully. We also enjoy using the stopping points without the shops, so just toilets and picnic benches. These tend to be quieter with more space to sit outside and stretch out.
Our two guests flew from the UK to Chambery Airport (£300 return total) then caught the train from Chambery to Modane (about £40 return for 2 people). From there, there is a bus up to Val Cenis (£36 return for 2 people). Total of £376 for 2 people.
We use Rail Europe https://www.raileurope.com/ to book our train tickets but there are other sites available too.
To book the bus we use Altibus. https://booking.altibus.com/. The S52 and S53 take you from Val Cenis to Modane train station and Saint-Michel Valloire train station.
Accommodation
There are lots of ski in/out apartments starting from about £300 for 8 people for a basic apartment up to more luxurious apartments at Easter. We found Air BnB a good site for price to use for Val Cenis but it is worth checking out other accommodation options including Accommodation at Val Cenis | Val Cenis | Haute Maurienne Vanoise.
Even mid-April, we were able to ski from our apartment further down the valley for half the week. Once it rained this was closed. It was not reopened after the heavy snowfall on our final day. This was not a problem for us, there was a free and easy to use bus service just 5 minutes walk from our apartment. There was also parking at the lift locations that were running on the final day.
Ski hire
We booked the children’s ski equipment for our trip through ALPINRESORTS.com, and the process was super easy & affordable. For two children 12 or under, the total cost was £73.58 paid in advance for 7 days rental. We collected from Ski Republic Cesar Sports, a nice ski shop in the middle of the village with easy free parking & friendly, helpful staff. Adult ski rental was available at approximately £100/week.
Ski passes
7 day pass: £230 per Adult (over 12 years), £191 per child (4-12 years)
6 day pass: £212.50 per adult (over 12 years).
We were refunded for the days we could not ski due to weather and avalanche risk.
Other activities in Winter
Small traversing wall for kids to climb on next to the ski lift in Lanslebourg.
Bowling centre
Public Swimming pool
Ice skating rink
Walks – many options.
Luge 20 minutes drive away 4 seasons sled – Norma Loops at La Norma
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