A magical adventure for the whole family. Self-drive, do it yourself trip.
Date of trip: 19 days, Summer holidays.
Total cost: €3250 (about £2,722)
Including
Fuel from Calais = €280
Tolls = €170
Number of party: 5 (2 adults, 3 children).
A real adventure awaited us as we awoke on the morning of 11th August 2023. The car was packed the night before, roof box loaded, kids with their own activity and snack-filled packs and a couple of good books for the car journey. The next 19 days were to be spent exploring mountains, sea, giant sand dunes, out of this world architecture, experiencing peace and storytelling. I loved everything about this trip (except becoming unwell in the middle) and we will definitely be repeating this trip with the grandparents and cousins in tow.
We stayed in the idyllic La Mongie village, nestled in the Col du Tourmalet in the Pyrenees. Tourmalet offers a great Winter ski base and is famous for the Tour De France cycling event, passing through on an extended steep climb. We awoke daily to the sound of cow bells ringing as the alpacas ambled past our accommodation window. The children rushed outside each sunrise to watch them. During the afternoons, vultures could be seen soaring high on the thermals or descending into the valley in their hundreds. There are so many activities we could have chosen, that a month would not have been long enough to explore. A highlight was the stars! I have never seen stars like these. I have been to many rural places but never seen the milky way so clear. Every night, I lay on our balcony gazing up to the sky whilst sipping a wine or tea and I could keep doing it forever. For those with an interest and good at booking in advance, there is an observatory located on the peaks. You can get a cable car from La Mongie for a day visit or overnight stay. Overnight stays sell out rapidly, so plan in advance. We didn’t manage a visit on this trip, but it is at the top of my list for a future visit.
The second part of the trip, we travelled to the Vieux-Boucau-les-Bains beach resort. Accommodation ranges from camping to apartments suited to all budgets. We chose a very affordable 2 bedroom next to the lake. There was a fan but I did regret not getting an air conditioned apartment when it hit 42oC outside. We survived ok by swimming frequently in the lake, just a one minute walk from our apartment. Also, we made sure the blinds were closed during the day so the sun did not heat the apartment and opened the windows at night to let in any breeze. We had a cold shower or swim just before bed, and used damp cloths to cool us down. It was an exceptionally hot year.
The lake leads into a dam and then onto the sea. This area is perfect for families. The lake has no current and has sandy beaches all around it, so safe for children to swim. The sea is good for surfing. There is a paved walk around the whole lake and an island in the middle. This can be reached by boat. There was evening entertainment including local performances to be viewed from one of the many restaurants. Everything was good value. You can hire pedalos, paddleboards and sailing boats. The kids loved sliding down the pedalo slides and just splashing about in the water. We took goggles and the children also liked looking for fish. In the evening, there were also parks for the kids to play in.
This region is famous for bull fighting but we found adventure parks, giant dunes and waterplay filled the kids thoughts. There are lots of ways to make this trip more affordable if need be including not staying at the expensive waterpark hotel and opting instead for a lower cost hotel nearby and then just getting a day ticket entrance to the park or skipping this part entirely as there is enough to do for a day at Disneyland itself. Accommodation in the Pyrenees and Vieux-Boucau-les-Bains was very affordable.
Enjoy your adventures x
Itinerary
Day 1: Ferry from Dover – Calais. Stay en route with pool. Evening swim.
Day 2: Visit Lascaux on way to Pyrenees to see prehistoric cave paintings. These are not the real ones, but pretty close. To avoid the real paintings getting damaged, a complete replica in a cave-type setting has been created. It feels like you are visiting the real deal. We spent a few hours here and purchased cave painting kits for the kids to try themselves. It was also an unbearably scorching hot day so the cave experience was a welcome cool spell. We arrived in late evening to the Pyrenees with time to settle in and shop for supplies. €23.00 13+, €15.00 child. English tours at 11:00 and 15:30.
Day 3: Pyrenees – visit Lourdes : The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes. The kids described the architecture as a Disney castle. We had a delicious meal in a nearby Vietnamese restaurant where my older son taught us all how to use chop sticks correctly. I love how travel creates opportunities and the right mood for moments like this. We finished the evening by taking part in the daily Lourdes procession. From April through October, Marian Processions are held daily at 9pm. Pilgrims assemble at the Grotto and proceed with candles to the esplanade of the Basilique Notre-Dame du Rosaire. I wanted to take some holy water back for my Mum and a candle from the procession. The holy water is free, you just need something to put it in. We purchased a branded water bottle from a nearby stall. The candles cost just a couple of euros and can be purchased just before the procession. The whole experience felt surreal and calming. In essence, creating a meditative state which the children enjoyed.
Day 4: White water rafting in the Pyrenees. A stunning drive along small mountain roads gave way to a valley with the perfect river for children to white water raft. Children as young as 5 can take part with their families. This activity felt well run and safe throughout. There were enough ‘rapids’ to keep the thrill seekers entertained without giving us parents a heart attack. The kids absolutely loved sliding off rocks into the water at the end of the raft experience. All kit was provided and a bus to bring us all back to the start afterwards. €46 per person.
Day 5: Pyrenees Trek with donkey. I became unwell on this day, so we had a rest day instead. We had planned to hire the donkeys to carry our daughter, enabling a longer walk on steeper terrain. Our daughter was 6 at the time. There were several interesting walks available with the donkeys, including an overnight trip staying in a refuge hut. Starting from around €40 for a half day trip per donkey. Children up to 9 can usually ride the donkeys being led by the parents, whilst older children will need to walk.
Day 6 : Pyrenees walk A half day walk through the Tourmalet valley. We followed marked trails, took a picnic and rewarded ourselves with an ice cream at the end. The day was hot and we were all grateful for a very cool dip in the river at lunch and a more relaxing pool swim in the afternoon. Charlie made friends with a large cricket, which he named Bob. Bob sat on his finger for the whole walk and kept Charlie engaged with the walk. At the end, Bob returned to his original spot. I wonder what he thought of his mini adventure! The kids were fascinated by all the wildlife, butterflies, crickets and insects everywhere. Birds singing. They used an App on my phone called Seek. By photographing an animal or plant, Seek can identify the species. It does sometimes mis-identify things, but it is ok enough to engage the children and give you a starting point for the guide books. We enjoy collecting pictures of different plants or animals to earn different badges.
The day was finished perfectly with a mountain bar BBQ on the col du Tourmalet. Icy drinks, the heat still lingering and a seat overlooking the BBQ and mountains. A recipe for a long relaxed evening.
Day 7: Pyrenees Via Ferrata. Jim and the three kids went to the Via Ferrata without me as I was still a bit under the weather. We worried about finding an activity that was suited to our children’s age range, 6-12 year old but this activity fitted perfectly. They also take children as young as 3 years old. Everyone started together on the same course. It was split into different levels. The green route was perfect for the boys to practice their skills and for Evelyn to feel like she had a real adventure. Evelyn did a couple of laps of the green route whilst Jimmy and the boys levelled up. The centre had a guide that looked after Evelyn whilst the boys continued. When she got tired of thrill seeking climbs, they had a park for her to play in. The boys said their route was a bit scary and challenging but they loved it anyway. If you fancy more adventure, this centre also offer climbing, zip lining and overnight accommodation. Costs €33 for a child 3-9 with babysitting, €33 for a child aged 9-13, €44 for anyone over 14 years or €144.00 for a family ticket.
Day 8: Lourdes Castle – Pyrenees. A great value activity to add some historical context to the trip. Children under 6 are free. Everyone else just €4. The castle sits on top of a hill, easily spotted anywhere in Lourdes, making the views spectacular. It was a steep walk but there was a lift available at the entrance.
Day 9: Drive Pyrenees – Vieux-Boucau-les-Bains. Afternoon swim, pedalo hire (take cash), then walk around the lake to find the perfect dinner spot.
Day 10: Dune du Pilat. We started the day with a swim. Then, Europe’s tallest sand dune, the Dune du Pilat. We enjoyed the 2 hour drive with air conditioning. There was plenty of parking, but the dune was busy. Before the steep sandy climb, we stopped at the restaurant, gazing upon the dune and enjoyed a champagne and dinner. We had about 2 litres in water each as it was still hot, despite approaching sunset and we drunk the lot before we got back to our car. We timed our climb to reach the peak as the sun was setting, along with hundreds of others. This was fine, there was plenty of space and there was something magical about sharing that moment with so many others. The kids enjoyed making sandcastles and threatened to dig to the bottom of the dune. We distracted them by a promise for a quick swim at the bottom of the dune. They loved jumping, gliding and rolling in the warm soft sand. The swim was picture perfect and the water glistened whilst swimming. BUT, to get back to the car, we had to go back up the dune and down again. Parking €6. Entry to dune = free.
Dat 11: Nature Reserve of the Courant d’Huchet exploration on foot. Then a 2 hour boat trip with Boatmen of the Courant d’Huchet – Léon. We saw lots of lizards, insects and a mallard but not a lot else on our trip. We did enjoy the coolness of travelling under trees and vines and the beautiful scenery. Our boat guide was full of stories. Not all the guides spoke English so make sure you ask for one if this is important for your group. From April 1st to the All Saints’ Day holidays, they offer two departures per day, at 10:00 in the morning and at 14:30. €20 per adult, £9 per child (up to 6 years old) for short ride (1.5 – 2 hours). €25 per adult, €12 per child (up to 6 years old) for long trip (2.5 – 3 hours).
Day 12: Vieux-Boucau-les-Bains play day. Hired pedalos, made it to the island for an exploration.
Day 13: Surfing and exploring in Biarritz. Butterfly themed ice-creams from dollhouse style ice cream huts, warm rocks great for jumping into the sea, interesting architecture and of course the surf. The waves were not large when we visited, but still perfect for the kids. Not too powerful but enough to move them without difficulty.Board hire was just €15 for the whole day. You can also hire wetsuits (not needed) and bodyboards. Parking was easy with lots of carparks, but there was a steep walk to the beach.
Day 14: Adventure Park. Ever fancied ziplining on a boat or quadbike? The kids loved this place. Think Go-Ape but more rustic! Great value for money, lots of courses for all ages and abilities. There was also a decent kids quad bike track and motorcross bike track and hire. Hot food available as well as ice-creams. Lots of fun! We spent about €150 for the whole day for all 5 of us including food and drinks.
Day 15: Vieux-Boucau-les-Bains play day.
Day 16: Driving Vieux-Boucau-les-Bains to Paris with midway stop at the Ornithological Park of Tiech. Boardwalks, wooden towers and interactive trail for families and oodles of wildlife including spoonbills, white stork and kingfisher. Food and nice toilets with easy parking are always a win. We had our own binoculars, but you can hire these here and spend some time viewing out of the hides. There is a shorter 2.5 km route on flat easy paths or a longer 6km route.
Overnight stay at Village Nature Paris where there is indoor climbing, pedalos, climbing park, bike hire and large waterpark.
Day 17: The morning was spent in the Water park at Village Nature. There is a mix of indoor and outdoor heated pools with flumes, obstacle course and lazy river. Then we went to Disneyland and stayed until after the fireworks.
Day 18. Avengers campus Disneyland.
Day 19: Ferry Calais to Dover. Drive home.
Best age to go
From 3 years old for most activities, but 5 years old for the white-water rafting.
When to go
Summer
Activities for free
Beach play, walks, wild swimming, surfing/bodyboarding if you bring your own boards, paddleboarding if you bring your own boards, body surfing, beach play.
Difficulties
Heat – drink plenty of water and always take water with you anywhere. Seek shelter in air-conditioned building if need be. Hide in the shade. Close shutters to keep accommodation cool. Park in shady spots.
Top tips to keep the kids interested
I’m often asked how the kids cope with the long car journeys. Ours are fine. They have been travelling since they were babies. My oldest son had an issue for about 3 months to a year when he cried if we travelled at night but soon grew out of it and the other two children have always been fine. What works for us is plenty of stops. The service stations in France are fantastic. The food is usually good, and they have parks for the kids to play and trees to climb. We break up the journey with food, activities, stories and let them play on phones or electronic games. Think how many hours they can be absorbed by a phone at home! Books, activities, colouring or a special magazine for the journey also helps, so they can have some time away from screens as well. Once at the site, they will be active, so a bit of screen time as a distraction driving, doesn’t seem that bad.
Pack each kid a lunchbox with snacks for the journey to eat when they please and a drinks bottle. Keep this stored next to them so they don’t have to ask you every time they want to snack or for a drink.
Useful links :
The International Center of Parietal Art Lascaux IV – Lascaux Cave paintings
Home – Vertige de l’Adour Via Ferrata
White water Neste d’Aure White water rafting
welcome Donkey hiking hire
A castle, a fortified town – Castle Pyrenean Museum Lourdes Castle
Pic du midi | Pic du midi Tourmalet observatory
Boatmen of the Courant d’Huchet – Léon, Welcome to the boatmen’s website Wildlife boat trip
Adrenaline Park in MOLIETS-ET-MAA – Landes Atlantic South Adrenaline park
Homepage – Ornithological Reserve of Teich Arcachon ornithological park
Car park / Fees – Dune du Pilat | Pyla sur Mer Dune du Pilat
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