Finding Family Adventures

Lapland in Winter – Rovaniemi (Finland) and Kalix (Sweden)

A magical adventure for the whole family. Self-drive, do it yourself trip.

Date of trip: 1 week, end of December, 2024.

Total cost: £9500

We have our own ski outfits and boots.

Number of party: 10 (5 adults, 5 children).

We visited Lapland 7 years ago when my daughter was just one and before my niece was born. We took my parents, our two boys (aged 5 & 7), my sister and nephew (5). It was the most magical experience ever and everyone has been begging to go back each year since. We finally relented when my daughter pointed out that she was just a baby before, so couldn’t remember it and her cousin had bever been. We leaked the idea to my father, who couldn’t contain his excitement, he was like a boy … at Christmas. On his previous visit, he even got to sit on the knee of St Nicholas himself. We won’t be talking about Santa options in this blog too much as it’s too big a topic, but we will cover this in a future blog.

It is easy to have good and less good experiences in Lapland. It can be a hugely expensive destination but I do believe there is something for everyone and a way to bring those costs down without losing the magic that we all go for. I will try and cover some of the most commonly asked questions, our experiences and our favourite things to do.

One thing we had noticed was that the popular attractions were much busier than when we went 7 years ago at the same time of year (Christmas holidays) and same location (Rovaniemi). A local told us, it’s been like this since Covid. There are still ways to find quieter magical spots for those who struggle with noise and crowds of people. Our favourite spots 7 years ago, were not our favourite this time. We found new treasures, balancing entertainment for all the ages and found some of our old favourites had lost their charm and were too crowded for our group.

We arrived late to Rovaniemi airport and found our car hire documents said the wrong date, so no car hire. None of the car hire companies at the airport had any bookings left for the duration of our stay (a lesson to book and check all documents well in advance). We searched online and found a company that hired cars locally and at a much lower rate than we had initially budgeted. We were picked up by a lovely gentleman and his wife with their two sleeping children and taken to the new car.  Crisis averted!

In Kalix, Sweden, our house was a lovely traditional red wooden design divided into two large bedrooms/living rooms with bunk beds, two bathrooms and a kitchen joining the two rooms. This worked well for us as we could separate the children if they needed quiet time. We had originally booked accommodation closer to Rovaniemi but had three separate houses cancel on us. One stated that they were now using the house at Christmas, another tried charging significantly more than originally stated and a third gave no reason. This had never happened to us before and has made us doubt private rentals in Finland. We spoke to the owner of the accommodation in Kalix who was reassuring and did not mind that we were arriving late at night. He left instructions for how to enter the building and, living next door, he checked in on us the following day.

Due to the increased distance from our new accommodation to Rovaniemi where we had originally booked, we last minute researched what we could do near Kalix. There is plenty to do near Kalix and a whole week holiday could be based there. Unfortunately, we only had a month to rebook activities which is rather late for the Christmas period. Ultimately, we had a mishmash of activities, some based in Rovaniemi, some in Sweden. It worked for us, helped by the good weather and road conditions during our visit.

There are easily enough activities in Rovaniemi or Kalix to fill a multi week trip if budget allowed. We had the usuals on our list including; the real Father Christmas, reindeer sleigh ride, learning about reindeer farming, huskies, snow mobiles for the kids as well as the adults, sledging, ice sculptures, northern lights, ice fishing and lots of snow play. Added bonus trips included exploring the frozen ocean just 5 minutes from our accommodation, also a great spot to watch the Aurora, a semi frozen waterfall walk at Storforsen and something for the older kids, ice karting. My father, 14 year old, myself, husband and sister all loved icekarting at Lapland Winter Park, whilst my Mum watched the younger children in their warm café with hot chocolates and cookies. We will definitely need to do this again. The winter park was a great venue and quiet. On our next visit, we will probably book into a whole day here and try some of the other activities. The younger kids all enjoyed snow mobiles but my 4 year old niece was too short to go by herself. This was fine, an adult could jump on for free and help with the steering.

We booked all activities direct with the companies ourselves, which is easy and saves paying a middle agent. We didn’t need to go anywhere for the Northern lights so no charge. We had great views for 3 nights, right outside our house. Alongside cheaper costs, it is the reason we wanted a house a bit outside of the city/towns. We didn’t need to drag the tired children out on an aurora hunting expedition on the off chance of seeing them, we just waited for them to start and woke the kids up for a view. This App is great to work out the likelihood of a show and where.

Our second favourite site was the Arctic Snow Hotel, again felt quiet even with lots of guests about. There was plenty of space and entertainment to spread out. Seven years ago, we stayed overnight in one of the ice rooms. They sit at a stable -5^oC. There is a heated bunkroom if you want to bail out of your icy cavern during the night and a locker room for your belongings. You are warm enough with the bedding they give you and your base layer clothes. It was a bucket list experience. Whilst my parents and the kids slept soundly, I did not. I awoke to a missing husband and a flat phone battery (due to the cold) so I couldn’t contact him. I felt a bit ill and wanted to find the toilet but also didn’t want to leave the children unsupervised. There was no real door, just a curtain. So I waited till the morning, drank my drink signifying I survived the night, collected our certificates and went on the search for my husband, who had not reappeared. He was fine. He had tried to wake me and thought I responded. He visited the loo in the night but then got claustrophobia from the labyrinth of tunnels and lack of windows and decided to go outside for a walk. When he got tired he found a nice hut to sit in.

It’s still a beautiful network of art so this time we decided to buy a day ticket to look around all the rooms and enjoy a drink in the ice bar without the overnight stay. There are also heated glass igloos here. We intend to try a glass igloo on our next visit. We started our day visit with a lesson in ice fishing and using the kick sledges to reach the fishing site. This was a hit from the start with everyone. My Dad enjoys fishing and it was lovely watching him teach his grandchildren what to do and them in awe of his expertise. We had talked to the instructor beforehand and she said that they hardly ever catch fish at that time of year, which was fine, the kids mostly enjoyed just drilling the holes. It was a surprise to everyone that Dad caught a fish within 20 minutes. An hour later, just before packing up my son caught another larger fish and the other kids in our group had significant nibbles. After quick photos, the fish were released. Noone else in the group caught fish. They were perch, but there was also pike in the lake. A complimentary warm berry drink and biscuit was enjoyed before exploring the ice hotel, more kick sledging and Ringos.

The children had a rest day at the house making snowmen and an igloo whilst 3 of us had a Nordic skiing lesson booked at the Riekkola- nature reserve (Haparanda Sweden). We were surprised at how light the ski’s and boots were compared to down-hill skiing.

Another big bucket list tick for the adults was riding the snow mobiles. Our guide owned the hotel, he was an excellent guide, really attentive and interesting. We were given lots of opportunity to explore a vast icy landscape on the frozen river which led to a frozen sea. Hot berry juice, homemade cake and biscuits were a delightful finish. Wrap up warm with proper snow boots, thermal socks, thermal balaclava to wear under your helmet, gloves that go to low temperatures. Even with all our Winter layers we felt cold at -17oC, when the wind picked up at the coast. My son invested in new snow boots on his return that go down to -40oC.

Snowman world in Rovaniemi is busy but manageable. To ensure there was something for my Mum to enjoy, we booked lunch in the ice restaurant here. The food was tasty with unlimited tea or coffee. For the children, the giant ice slides and ice skating were a big win. Originally, my daughter was excited by the evening ice disco but it was just too noisy and busy for us.

The underground attraction, Santa Park in Rovaniemi was a huge hit on our first visit with all ages. We really enjoyed the way the elves interacted with the children and were in full character throughout, helping them with crafts and decorating the gingerbread hearts. We missed the play area, no longer there now, which kept the kids amused for hours. The shows are still good but it felt wrong having a VIP line to see Santa and the elves paid little attention to the kids. The whole experience just felt a little less magical and more commercialised. The redeeming features are a good Santa and show and the kids liked the food. It’s still a reasonable option for a cold day.

Finally, Santa’s Village which sits on the boundary for the arctic circle. This was chaotic and very busy with kids sliding down ice into people and was a little much for us on this visit. The restaurants were crammed full but if you walk across the road to the petrol station restaurant, you can pick up food the kids would like with no queues. There are lots of good attractions at Santa’s village including a display about Krampus, opportunity to see a decent Santa for free, writing letters home from the Arctic circle (you can send post to arrive the following Christmas), huskies, reindeer rides, snow mobiles. These are like bitesize activities so if your time or budget is stretched, you can fit in all the main attractions for a low cost. Previously, we just turned up and did what we could fit in and were expecting to be able to do this for a husky ride. Unfortunately, the husky experiences were sold out for the whole day and there were big queues for everything else. Definitely book in advance if going at peak periods like Christmas.

Best age to go

We found it fairly easy with a 1 year old and wrapped her in layers and her snowsuit. When she was tired, she fell asleep in a sledge and we pulled her everywhere. We found places for her to toddle around and join in with the fun. My boys enjoyed everything at 5 and 7 and when we returned at 12 and 14. We focussed on different experiences. My 67 year old parents enjoyed everything as well. So I am going to answer with, absolutely all ages, but be careful on the ice, it can get very slippery, and watch the thermometer. I would be concerned about an unstable relative slipping and injuring themselves. The cold can get serious. Even wrapped up in all the gear, it can be just too cold to play happily or safely. Temperatures can get down to -50oC. Most tour operators will cancel outdoor activities with children at around -20oC. Our coldest day was -32oC. There is a big comfort difference between -12oC and -32oC. Activity venues are usually set up to allow you to warm up with warm drinks, heated areas, fire pits and hot food. Some sell hand and foot warmers but I recommend bringing your own to save on costs. Invest in decent thermal socks, gloves and balaclavas.

When to go

December is expensive and busy but it is still achievable to get a neurodiverse friendly magical experience if you plan well and book in advance.

November can be more affordable and easier to get accommodation but snow is unpredictable and you may find that you turn up without any. If snow is essential to your experience, aim for the end of December, January or February. Many Winter attractions do not open until 15^th December.

There are lots of things to do if there is no snow, beautiful walks, waterfalls, museums as well as the Santa themed attractions.

Costs

There are many tour companies that offer excellent tours. We don’t use them in Lapland because we feel they are expensive and we feel we can safely and fairly easily do Lapland by ourselves. They do offer reassurance for some and most definitely have a place. Our trip is a do it yourself deal to tailor the trip to our desires and budget.

Ice karting (69€), kids snow mobiles (35€) and feeding reindeer at Lapland Winter Park. Join the exciting Ice karting experience in Lapland Winter Park at Rovaniemi

Arctic Snow Hotel where you could ice fish, play on snow Ringos, sledge, use kick sledges for free, tour the amazing sculptured rooms in the maze like ice hotel, hot tub, sauna, ice sauna.  Arctic SnowHotel & Glass Igloos, Rovaniemi, Lapland, Finland. Adults 59€, children 30€ (2-12 years), for ice fishing. Adults 29€, children 15€ for ice hotel entry.

Reindeer safari or husky safari (Adult 40€, child 30€) Reindeer and Husky Farm Raitola | Authentic reindeer and husky adventures in Lapland.

The Riekkola- nature reserve (Haparanda Sweden) for a Nordic ski lesson with Nordic Safaris (95€). Other activities are available here. Nordic Safaris – Experience the Winter

2 hours adult snow mobile trip (£138.50 each) with Snowmobile safari 2h – Filipsborg. Children can be towed by the instructor.

Snowman world (29€) Snowman World – Santa Claus Village – Rovaniemi Restaurant

Santa’s Village – free to look around and see Santa but everything else costs extra and we recommend booking in advance.

Santa’s Park (Adult 42€, Child 37€ for a 2 day ticket) – Underground amusement type park where you can see Santa, decorate cookies, try a VR sleigh ride, go on a Christmas themed ride and take part in elf school. SantaPark – The home cavern of Santa Claus

Other activities to consider

Downhill skiing – small ski resort. https://www.skiresort.info/ski-resort/rudtraeskbacken-kalix/.

Husky park at Santa’s Village Fur-riendliest Husky Experience in Rovaniemi, Lapland – Husky Park.

Snow glow Rovaniemi.

Ranua zoo.

Arktikum museum in Rovaniemi Arktikum – Arctic Science Center & Museum – Rovaniemi, Lapland.

Tornio Fireworks/celebrations where you can celebrate New Years Eve in both Finland and Sweden giving you twice the fireworks and celebrations.

See an ice hockey match in Rovaniemi.

Activities for free

When it’s very cold, try freezing bubbles. The colder the better. We’ve had this work at -17oC.

Sledging – Some resorts will have free sledges to use or you can buy small ones for around £1 in supermarkets.

Make snow angels.

Snow sculptures or an igloo – you may need to wet the snow to make this work. We used a mould to compact snow and poured water on it and let it freeze for an hour for more solid walls.

Walks to see the snowy scenery including forests, rivers, the frozen ocean or waterfalls.

Searching for the Northern Lights.

Difficulties

Accommodation bookings – We always try to book private homes to accommodate our large group and give independent space for quiet time and central space for entertainment and socialising. Our first visit had passed without a hitch. With our second, we had 3 different accommodation providers cancel close to the departure date. This created a large amount if stress as shelter is essential in such cold climates. Hotels were booked up so it is not advisable to arrive without accommodation pre-booked. We eventually found a nice little house in Kalix, Sweden, 2 hour 16 minute drive from Rovaniemi (where our flight landed). It took us 2 hours 30 minutes to drive the route in good conditions.

Book ahead – At peak times property and activities are likely to sell out. If you want to stay in an igloo at Christmas or near the city, Rovaniemi, start looking a year in advance. Work out what you want and book as soon as the accommodation becomes available to ensure availability and best prices. Non-impressive small accommodation can be booked for thousands of pounds at Christmas. It is cheaper if you look further away from the city centre but even with an hour drive, you will struggle to find accommodation if you are slow to book.

Cars – check they are properly kitted out in Winter tires and take a blanket in them and a way to keep warm if you break down or crash. We have never had a problem with the condition of our vehicles but there have been recent accidents caused by rental cars with poor condition winter tires fitted. It is the law in Finland and Sweden that you always have your headlights on when driving, no matter the time of day.

Driving – The road conditions can vary greatly from dry and clear to covered in compacted snow or a sheet of slippery ice. There are some conditions where it is just not safe to drive. Experience of driving in snowy conditions is useful. If a route says it takes 2 hours on the SATNAV, it can take 4 hours or longer in reality in harsh conditions.

Permission to drive a hired car across borders – ensure your car rental allows this if you plan to cross from one country to another as we did. You usually have to pay a little extra for this, but not always.

Relationships with locals – Locals have been upset that Aurora hunters have crossed onto their land, shining torches through their windows at all times of the night. Another common complaint is tourists taking sledges that belong to locals, including very expensive kick sledges from outside supermarkets that elderly use to support them with their shopping. For the locals, Lapland is not a theme park, it’s their life. If we keep this in mind, you will find no issue. We found the local people to be friendly and had great conversations in random spots including overlooking a frozen ocean discussing how quickly the conditions change, one week the guy was riding his snowmobile over the ocean to visit his house on a little island, a few days later, he was rowing. Good job he didn’t stay overnight at his lodge, or he would have had to swim back.

Top tips to keep the kids interested

Keep them warm. Hand warmers and feet warmers are great but allow time to pop inside for a warm drink or treat between activities so they can warm up.

Factor in free play time to just enjoy the snow.

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